Pressure dropping into the weekend, water's in the sweet spot, and the herring are moving shallow. Fish the point bite hard before the front rolls through.
We're in full fall transition with water sitting at a comfortable 73 degrees. The pressure is falling, which fires up the bass before any cold weather pushes in. This time of year the herring start their slide from summer depth toward the shallower creek arms, and the largemouth follow. With cloud cover heavy and the sky staying dull, the shallow bite can hold all day instead of stacking tight into dawn and dusk. The lake's down about 4 feet from full pool, which means everything sits closer to the surface than you'd expect from the old contours. Bass are starting to school around main-lake points and humps as they prep for winter, so electronics matter. The falling pressure means they're chewing right now, especially in the next few hours before any weather system moves in.
The day's game plan
Where to fish
- Main-Lake Points — 8 to 25 feet · Points with brush, rock, or timber adjacent to channels deeper than 25 feet. Crown shallow, edge deep.
Points funnel bass movement and concentrate both bait and predators. Fall bass school on points as they transition from summer depth. Access to deep water is critical. - Secondary Creek Points — 6 to 15 feet · Inside creek points with cover and slopes dropping to deeper water. Secondary points hold more numerous fish than main-lake.
Herring migration follows creeks in fall. Bass stage on secondary points before moving into the creeks. Points with structure edge are better than clean ones. - Main-Lake Humps and Brushpiles — 18 to 25 feet · High-spot structure, usually humps or ridges with planted or blown-down timber. Must confirm presence with electronics.
Fall schooling bass suspend around high spots where herring and prey gather. Brush gives cover. Sonar is required to locate productive spots efficiently.
What to throw
- Zoom Super Fluke — 5 in · Pearl, natural shad, smoke · 1/4 oz on shaky head (Early morning on suspended schoolers, throughout the day on flats and points with herring present)
Cast to structure and let it fall and glide. Work it with small twitches and pauses. Don't burn it. Let suspension and the glide do the work. - Green Pumpkin Texas-Rigged Worm — 5 in · Green pumpkin · 1/4 oz bullet sinker (Morning and afternoon on point slopes and transitions)
Drag it slow along the point slopes and drop-offs. Let it crawl the bottom. Fish are right on it at contact. - Greenfish Tackle Football Jig with Fluke Trailer — 3/8 oz trailer · Brown or peanut butter jig with natural fluke · 3/4 oz jig head (Midday on deep humps and brushpiles)
Hop it off the bottom in short bursts. Count down to the target depth. Work around brushpiles and cover. - Rapala DT Crankbait — DT10 or DT16 · Crawfish, herring pattern · Built-in (Afternoon point-working rotation)
Crank it steady across the point, covering water from shallow to 15 feet. Let it deflect off cover naturally. - Walking Topwater or Buzzbait — n/a · White or black · 3/8 oz to 1/2 oz (Dusk and early morning when light is low)
Walk it side to side or buzz it fast. Make noise. Work it around any cover and into shallow banks.
How to work it
- Point Rotation — Early morning through late afternoon. Points are the foundation of the fall bite. · Main-lake and secondary creek points in 6 to 25 feet with deep water access
Run a route hitting 4 to 6 main-lake points with brush or rock, starting shallow on the crown and working the deeper edge. Hit the same point twice if conditions shift. - Dragging — Morning and afternoon on slopes and bottom structure. Slow and methodical works when light is present. · Point slopes, ledges, and transitions where structure changes
Cast out and keep the bait on the bottom or suspended zone. Feel the contour with your line. Move it slowly with subtle twitches. Maximize contact time over bare bottom. - Hopping the Jig — Midday on deep offshore structure. Works when bass are grouped and need triggering. · Brushpiles, humps, and deep cover in 15 to 25 feet
Let the jig settle on bottom. Hop it up 12 to 18 inches with a short snap of the rod, then drop it back on slack line. Repeat in a steady rhythm. Most strikes come on the fall.
Pro tips
- The lake is down 4 feet from full pool, which means all your mapped depths run effectively shallower than charted. If the map shows a 20-foot hump, it's effectively 16 feet now. Adjust your contours in your head when reading your electronics.
- Falling pressure before a front usually triggers feeding hard for 6 to 12 hours. The bite today and into tonight is prime. Don't waste it. After the front passes the pressure rises and the bite gets tougher for a few days.
- Electronics are not optional this time of year. The offshore fish are suspended or scattered. Running sonar over structure to confirm bait and fish presence saves hours of blind casting. Find structure with fish on it, not just good-looking map spots.
If conditions change
If the front blows through overnight and pressure rises and the sky clears, expect the bite to slow noticeably the next morning. The bass will bury tighter to cover and the strike zone shrinks. Drop down to 4-inch finesse worms, fish slower, and target the densest cover available. If the pressure keeps dropping and weather intensifies, the bite may stay hot through the transition. If the wind shifts to north and cools things down further, the shallow bite will collapse faster and the offshore fish bite may sharpen in response. If cloud cover breaks and sun intensity climbs, move the afternoon pattern deeper faster and rely more on electronics to hunt offshore brushpiles. If stain works in from the creeks, switch to darker colors (black, junebug) and bladed baits (chatterbaits, spinnerbaits) that displace water better. Herring patterns remain solid regardless.
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